One dye-chemistry series (Imada, 2002) counts silk, together with wool and leather, among the natural polyamide (protein) fibres and covers it in the same chapter on dyes for polyamide fibres as nylon. Kaken's explainer pages on acid and reactive dyes also list silk, alongside wool, among the fibres those dyes can dye.
Claims and evidence (23)
The limitations noted for some sources are recorded in Japanese only — see the Japanese edition.
Lists cellulosic fibres (cotton, linen, rayon etc.), wool and silk as dyeable.
Source:
反応染料 (一般財団法人カケンテストセンター) ・本文「…に染色可能」 ・
States that reactive dyes are also used to dye silk.
acid mordant dye is applicable to silkcontextual
Lists wool, silk and nylon as dyeable.
Source:
酸性媒染染料 (一般財団法人カケンテストセンター) ・本文「…に染色可能」 ・
acid dye is applicable to silkcontextual
Lists wool, silk, nylon and polyurethane as dyeable.
Source:
酸性染料 (一般財団法人カケンテストセンター) ・本文「…に染色可能」 ・
Scope: Accounts of wool differ by source (Dharma's soda ash product page recommends acid dye instead, while the tie-dye instructions page says wool can be soda-ash dyed with half the amount and a 4-6 hour cure limit)
Says it can also be used with silk but not other protein fibres such as wool.
Says soda ash can fix fibre reactive dyes on silk when heat-setting is not an option, with caution: presoak just before dyeing and cure only 4–6 hours; wool tends to feel brittle, so acid dyes with heat are better.
Says soda ash is very hard on silk and wool: use half as much and cure no more than 4–6 hours, or use the vinegar/microwave method instead.
Scope: Dharma fibre reactive dyes
Says colours may shift on silk: blue does not combine well with silk, so mixes with blue shift toward the other colours (black to brown or maroon, purple to raspberry, forest green to chartreuse).
Says fibre reactive colours shift on protein fibres and a true black cannot be obtained.
post-dyeing colour-fixing agent is applicable to silkcontextual
Scope: regarding products carried by Miki Senryoten
Lists 'Silk Fix 3A' as a dye-fixing agent (colour-fixing agent) for silk.
Condensed tannin is applicable to silkpreliminary
Scope: silk-dyeing tests comparing low-molecular-weight tannin (ethyl-acetate extract), high-molecular-weight tannin (50%-acetone extract), the whole Sharinbai liquor, and a catechin solution
Measured tannin uptake on silk was 6.3 mg/g for the low-molecular-weight tannin solution, 5.6 mg/g for the high-molecular-weight solution, 8.5 mg/g for the whole Sharinbai liquor, and 9.9 mg/g for a catechin solution; the authors attribute the liquor's higher uptake to non-tannin substances also being taken up.
cellulosic fibres differs from silkcontextual
Scope: Cotton and silk, per the author's experience
States that cotton and silk differ considerably in colour even with the same dye and mordant, speculating this may be because protein and cellulose present different surfaces.
silk ・found inYoshinogari Historical Park's 'Yayoi Museum' pages state that some of the silk cloth excavated from jar-coffin burials at the Yoshinogari site, Saga Prefecture, was confirmed to have been dyed with shell purple or Japanese madder.contextual
Scope: jar-coffin burials at the Yoshinogari site, Saga Prefecture
States that some of the silk cloth was also confirmed to have been dyed with shell purple or Japanese madder.
silk ・propertyThe parks pages state that Yoshinogari has yielded a finely woven, translucent silk called sukime-ginu not found at other sites, a weave common in ancient silks from the central China region, suggesting exchange with that area.contextual
Scope: Yoshinogari site, Saga Prefecture
States that Yoshinogari has yielded a finely woven, translucent silk called sukime-ginu found at no other site, a weave common among ancient silks from central China that suggests exchange with that region.
wool differs from silkobservation
Scope: an uncontrolled participant experiment at the workshop (rayon, silk, wool)
States that a participant, curious how the dye colour varies by material, dyed rayon, silk and wool together and found the resulting colours to be quite different from each other.
silk ・propertyA visit report describes two reconstructed Yayoi-period costumes on display at Yoshinogari Historical Park, made by textile scholar Nunome Junro based on pigment identification of the excavated fibres: one with warp dyed with Japanese madder and weft with Kaimurasaki, the other with both warp and weft dyed with Japanese madder.contextual
Scope: exhibit at Yoshinogari Historical Park, as recorded by a visitor
Describes two reconstructed Yayoi costumes made by Nunome Junro: one with warp dyed with Japanese madder and weft with Kaimurasaki, the other with both warp and weft in Japanese madder, built to match pigment identification results from the excavated fibre fragments.
Kyo-kuro-montsuki-zome (Kyoto black formal-wear dyeing) requires silkcontextual
Specifies, under materials, that the fabric must be a silk weave.
Chinese cork tree is used in silkcontextual
Berberine, hydroxyberberine and jatrorrhizine identified the dye as Chinese cork tree bark; together with the silk fibre, this points to possible import from China.
cotton differs from silkcontextual
T2 is mostly cotton, but the bright pink and bright yellow supplementary wefts are silk, dyed with lac dye and Chinese cork tree dye respectively.
silk differs from cottoncontextual
Silk suits red dyes but is damaged by indigo's chemistry (hence red as a high-status colour); cotton is poorly suited to red (often pinkish-brown) but suits indigo well (hence blue as everyday workwear colour).
Source:
Burma Calling: Deep Dive into Dye (Kalinko) ・'Silk takes on red dyes very well, but is attacked by the chemicals in indigo, hence why red is historically the colour of high status...Cotton, on the other hand, is less friendly with red...but loves blue'の段落 ・
Kente (Asante/Ewe strip-woven cloth) requires silkcontextual
Records that in the 1730s an envoy of a Danish trader observed King Opokuware's court, where the king brought silk taffeta and multicoloured materials that artisans unravelled and mixed with cotton to obtain many colours.
Source:
Asante Kente Cloth (Duncan Clarke (Adire African Textiles)) ・本文2段落目("One of the first accounts of Asante royal silk weaving comes from the 1730s...") ・
silk ・why it fell out of useThe same account states that since the early 20th century natural silk has been mostly replaced by artificial rayon fibre, which Asante weavers adopted as a substitute for the more expensive silk once it became commercially available, by at least the 1930s-40s.contextual
Scope: Asante kente weaving
States natural silk has mostly been replaced by rayon since the early 20th century, adopted as a substitute for silk by at least the 1930s-40s.
Source:
Asante Kente Cloth (Duncan Clarke (Adire African Textiles)) ・本文2段落目末尾、および本文5段落目("the vast majority are woven of rayon, which was adopted by Asante weavers as a substitute...at least by the 1930s/40s") ・
silk ・requiresImmersion dyeing of silk is classified by recipe into neutral-bath and acid-bath dyeing, both mainly using direct or acid dyes (including 1:2 metal-complex acid dyes); the article states neutral-bath dyeing (no acid added) is mainly used for fabric, while acid-bath dyeing (acidified with ammonium sulfate or acetate) is mainly used for yarn.contextual
Scope: Immersion dyeing of silk with direct or acid dyes
Describes the neutral-bath vs. acid-bath distinction and their typical uses (fabric vs. yarn).
silk ・propertyThe article states that colourfastness is generally better with an acid bath than a neutral bath, but acid-bath dyeing of fabric is often avoided because it tends to cause abrasion (fraying) in practice; to offset this, a post-dyeing treatment called 'acid-pass' or 'acid-reeling' is sometimes used.contextual
Scope: Silk immersion dyeing, acid bath vs. neutral bath
Describes the fastness advantage and abrasion drawback of acid-bath dyeing, and the acid-pass/acid-reeling countermeasure.
silk contains Fibroincontextual
Gives the general compositional breakdown of raw silk, citing earlier literature.
Scope: In the context of home dyeing
Lists silk alongside wool as a fibre that can be dyed.
silk differs from cottonpreliminary
Scope: Silk and cotton dyed with onion-skin extract (skin at 100% owf): dyeing 85 °C 30 min, mordanting 20 min at room temperature, metal at 1, 3 and 5% owf, both pre- and post-mordanting. Ion-exchanged distilled water, reagent-grade salts. Colour measured as CIE L*a*b* with a spectrophotometer and integrating sphere.
The abstract states ΔE* of silk was higher than that of cotton and was affected by fibre structure and dye-bath pH.